Wednesday, June 27, 2018

IP SID Dior Goddess Dress: Under Dress

Updated for close up bodice photos.

This is my version of the original here.  This is the foundation for the goddess dress, the cake to the frosting.

Dior was inspired mainly by Nature; the gardens he grew up with are apparent in so many of his more complicated works, and at the Atelier Dior to this day.  The foundation for all this gossamer and fairy work was an under dress that could support the weight of the outer dress, whether it be silk flowers, Brazilian Embroidery, or bead laden.  The models who first swooped into the Dior show room in the New Look were described in “Vogue on Dior” as knocking over the ash tray stands with the weight of their chiffon, silk and lace skirts.  I sincerely hope there were no lit cigarettes in them to leave burn marks in the gowns!

I was very happy to follow the steps described, photographed, and video recorded in everything I could lay eye on re Dior, and find that the under dress looked exactly as it should!  Unlike the original heavy net, I used muslin for the corset, with plastic boning, hooks and hand made loops.  The classic shape (Mid-Victorian) of the corset determined the Dior swoop of the hem, ankle length in front, heel length in back. I put a sliding ribbon tie at the inner waist to allow for snugging it to the slightly smaller waist of the new SID bodies, also a fitting trick of the 50s, and chiffon pockets in the bust for medium or large pads to be put in, depending on the bust of the doll who will eventually wear it.  The dress is patterned to fit the Glamour bust size at 30cm.  My girl is a small bust at 28cm. 

Edit: I will change the slippery waist ribbon for a gross grain one in a bit.  

Photographing in the park has its issues.  First, there is finding a stable flattish area to place the little folding table.  Then adjust for the shade of the trees.  All the while panicking over the dogs barking behind me and the fear that one of them will race up and wham!  So I was incredibly nervous.  I learned a lot of respect for those who routinely take their doll out on location this morning.


The skirt photographed beautifully on the first shot. Except then I realized that her elbow was disjointed. O_O  So I tried to take another photo.  And the wind came up.  


Then the tree branches started moving and a batch of photos came out blindingly sunny, and by the time I tried to take the side view, the wind was blowing all that tulle around to the front.  I gave up.  

And the close up of the bodice structure.  Note that the pads are for 30cm, and I can make thinner ones, depending on the doll who will wear the dress.  The ribbons loops are dress hangers.  I have often seen girls with their first prom dress try to use them as shoulder straps so yeah, just a 'so you know'.  ^_^




And the library has only PowerPoint for any kind of photo editing, so I have to just take the best ones I can.  Next time I will take the tripod.  I don't know why I forgot it, I always use it, but I am a bit ditsy lately.   

Now the fun part begins.  I have no idea how long it will take me to embellish the dress itself, and I have to test some theories I have on some elements, and it is all being done by hand sewing. 

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