Sunday, June 3, 2018

Dior Project: Under Dress

I've managed in the past week to come up with a fix for the 5 different size Iplehouse SID problem.  The waist only varies by 3 millimeters.  This is a structured shoulder-less formal dress.  The rest is the bust area.  Dior constructed his dresses over a corset and slip under dress.  It was not unusual to use bust 'enhancers' for some figures.  The only thing I am having issues with is that Dior underdresses were mostly netting and the netting these days is not as sturdy as in those days, due to its being finer.  And I don't want to scratch up a doll with the rougher net, so I will stick to muslin and chiffon for the under dress.  This is my goal for the under dress, as I have posted previously; Pictures swiped from the Metropolitan Museum collection,


This is a tea-length version but you can see how he emphasized the waist by dropping the skirt's attachment point.  I read somewhere ages ago in fashion classes that his models had to have waists no bigger than the circumference of their heads.  Of course he hired girls who had been half starved during the war so yeah...they probably were not as big as modern girls are, or as tall as most models these days are required to be. I believe his Asian ethnic background model was only 5 feet tall, but that might be a mis remembered factoid, too.  


Once the under dress is done, the actual dress was draped and pinned on the model wearing it, and the fabric manipulated into position by pins and basting stitches.  The dresses were so structured and supported, they could practically stand on their own in many cases.
This was screen capped from the book, "Vogue on Christian Dior".   You can see the little tweaks to make things fit well past the pattern part.  Things like sweat shields, letting out, taking in, refitting, last minute design changes can be traced, as long as the dress looked good on the outside, the silk and chiffon covered skyscraper-like support on the inside.  And all but the long, straight seams were typically done by hand. If you watch the Dior YouTube vids, it's amazing what they do by hand, and the hours of work that go into each dress.  Thank goodness, I can cut all that by one-third.  Maybe, LOL!  

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