Wednesday, January 27, 2016

Commission: Soom Super Gem Flapper Dresses

Fishcake has commissioned a trio of basic bias cut flapper dresses she will then decorate to the time period.  This is the example she sent me.  Paid in full, time indeterminately soonish.

Anyone who follows this blog knows I'm nutty about Tracy Butler's Lackadaisy Cats, where cats is flappers and waffles is lies, so I'm hep to the period.  Plus who can resist the era of Berty Wooster?

A while back, thanks to Mrs. Depew discussing it at A Few Loose Threads, I found the book I have been searching for for ages.  A 1927 copy of the Butterick Pattern Company's 'Art of Dressmaking'.  I got it from a used book store through Amazon for something like 11$ if I remember right.  A lot of the techniques in this old home sewing book are now considered only useful in haute couture.  It's moldy (possibly dangerous), falling apart and worth its weight in gold.  I have read of people who had to get rid of old pattern collections because of allergies. Yeah and I'm allergic to cats.  Like I'd let go of this baby.

Note that while she is padding the dressmaking mannequin's bust, the prescribed fashion figure of the time period is 'board straight, board flat'.  However if you read Lackadaisy Cats, you can see that having curves (or a fluffy tail) does nothing to stop how great the fashions of the time looked.

March 8, 2016  Finished!

In the process of patterning, I realized that I had bought zippers for no good reason. Well, into the stash they go!  No problem there!  Bias dresses are like t-shirts, you pop them on and pull them down.  I laid the doll flat on the table, poked her hands through the armholes and braced her feet on my hip and swoop!  The Super Gem I have is a little tiny bit bigger all around than the new version.

One thing I realized when I was making the dresses was that any trim will have to be bias as well, or if beaded loosely from behind so that the beads can stretch with the bias.

I serged the first pink dress (total fail) and then realized that the serging was a no-go.  For one thing, sergers were not in use at the time, second, it stiffened the side seams and caused pouching.  I went back to my trusty text books and did a double tight steam since the bias was not about to fray that much.

Packed up and ready to ship tomorrow.  ^_^

1 comment:

  1. Oh they came out so pretty!! And I realized that I wanted to make sort of a beaded overdress anyway (think a net shawl of beads) rather than trying to sew anything to that delicate fabric, so this is perfect! Thank you so much!


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