Friday, December 5, 2014

Dior Study Project 01

So, having completely neglected to save the photos I took of the patterning part, nothing much new, just the same old adjusting the basic bodice, etc.  and getting the underslip done and starting to put the bodice lining and front on, I though, oops... .  That's what I get for working on this in the early mornings before I'm seriously awake.

The break down, with swiped images because when backing up my camera, I missed a file.  >.<;;  Gone! Gone forever!  And all because I was trying to back them up and not lose them!

This is a first trial run dress to get the feel of what is happening.  It's intended to be a simple evening gown in the style of Dior.

Dior builds most of it's formal dresses over a foundation slip that's the backbone of the dress.  This allows for all sorts of things to be draped, tacked on, everything you see in the videos.  Cake (under dress) plus frosting (outer dress).  The under dress handles things like reinforcing shape, holding extra padding in place, controlling how the skirt hangs (with a Dior, more like making it float!).  This included hip padding and a type of bustling in some garments.  The top of the slip may be exposed and would be covered in matching outer fabric to conceal it.  Presumably the under dress could be removed for cleaning, preserving the outer dress safely.  There is a lot of heavy duty work usually going into ballet costumes that I'm seeing a more delicate version of in the Dior process.

Metropolitan Museum swipe.  It's not too obvious
but there is a padded roll just on top of the hip area. 

Metropolitan Museum swipe
Dior did a lot of his work by draping and pinning great swaths of fabric to an under dress (I suppose his models were not afraid of pins!) and you can see that in a lot of the museum pieces.  The drapes were often hand stitched in place and close up, can look a bit sloppy, but that might be age and the fabric losing it's joi d'vie over time, settling like an old house.

So I started with a cotton muslin, and got the basic shape I wanted.  After adjusting the pattern pieces on the first fitting, I corrected and began arranging the gathering of the skirt, and so forth.  I haven't determined yet if I'm going to actually need a net petticoat, or padding; not until I see how the weight of the dress fabric works on the under dress.  My doll has had a bad morning, having taken both front dives and back dives off the table *twitch*, so she's looking a bit harassed.  She hasn't been herself since I boiled her head cap. >.>;;   I wanted to get a side view, but she refused. I'm going to have to make a stand for her.  She's a very lazy girl! I'll be switching the dress over to my new 'Rin' who wasn't around when I started this project.

At this point, the green bodice is only secured to the under dress at the top seam.  Because of the thickness of the fabrics I'm using I have to watch how much I pile on.  I started with the usual 3/4 inch back seam allowance and the thickness of the whole garment will absorb some of that.  Thus ends the first week.


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