Wednesday, July 2, 2014

What Archive Collection, McCall's?

I forgot to mention, didn't I?  That I'm cramming all my sewing interests into one blog now?  Oh, are you in for it.

I got into dolls to be able to indulge in my desire to sew vintage, retro and manga made up fashions without stuffing my closet to bursting (again).  When I see something interesting in fashion, I want to replicate it, to see how it's puzzled out, what was in the designer's brain, how it was translated to pattern, and how it was made!  It's like a gear head looking into an engine (the car failed smog yesterday, BTW, now it's the CAP program for us. >.<;; more government hoo-ha.)  I want to take it apart!  I want to seeeee, oooo how did they do that, I want that!

So this morning, joy of joys! the rumored McCall's line of retro patterns appears on Lilacs and Lace's blog!  I had sort of been keeping an eye out for this, because the Vintage Vogues for the past few years have been one 'party dress' after another.  The same skirt, a different bodice and bang, off to the printer to lure more collectors and re-sellers on Etsy and Ebay.

While Lilacs and Lace points out the obvious (and her commentors as well) I'm going to point and bitch analyze my thoughts and misgivings on the patterns.  Never mind the distracting grey wool.  The colors of the time were more 'fall' and 'jewel tone', not dull grey black and white like the movies.

Primary strike.  11.00 USD a pattern and the 'suit' comes in 2 patterns.  This is cheating.  Watch for sales.

The skirt:

    Something is odd about the lines.  The skirt seems a little too full in the made up version, The front waist detailing a little too 1900s decade.  I'd peg that sucker to my figure to look longer and leaner in the style of the time.  Especially if you're making it for a ball joint doll with all that leg.  I like the waist front, but I'd like to see it more 'haute' with the back matching, though that would take a side seam zipper.  But above all, make it up in a nicer color than boring b/w movie grey, unless you plan on piping with black or something to point up the details?  If I wanted a late 00s or early 20s look, maybe.  
 The jacket:

Is meh.  Thanks again, La Coco *eyeroll* for the boring. Sure it's to the time period, but it looks--ready to wear.  Spare on fabric, cheap on elements. Whip off the turn back cuffs and it's modern off the rack cardi-bleh.  They didn't even need to make a new pattern for this one.  It's 1/3 of every pattern in all the big names 'co-ordinates' section.  Who needs it? It should have been in with the skirt.

And good luck finding a hat to bring up the drama, because the hat and shoes will be the real retro elements.  That's my biggest complaint about all the Big 4 retro-reprints; why so few hat patterns?  All the pattern companies put out hat patterns in the original time; you can find the rare beasts if you look!  Why are there so few new patterns for reproduction hats?  The independents are simply redrafting the vintage hat patterns that are out of print, but the big names can't be bothered to put a copy of their own pattern for the hat in the same retro-repro clothing pattern?  If they can do it with the costume patterns, why not with the reproduction clothing patterns? 

What I'd spend my money, and more importantly, my sewing time on:

Eva Dress Reproductions of originals, some multi-sized, some you have to do yourself. 
It's the time period's higher fashion look, and as a stitcher, what I'd want to actually put labor into and feel proud of the results.  The new McCall's is rather timid, and that's fine, really.  Actually, I would glance at it and think it was something ready to wear rather than self-made, if the wearer were a competent stitcher. But if you want something a little more obviously 'vintage couture', (and really what's the point, if not?) the above pattern, paired with some of the fabulous blouse patterns on Eva Dress would convey 'classy'.

Or in a moment of insanity I'd love to tackle this one:

Eva Dress
Especially for a ball joint doll.  The sleeve and cross strap details just scream DOLL, and I've been lusting for this pattern ever since Debi on My Happy Sewing Place posted her wonderfully stitched outfit.  Looks like she won that contest! ^_^ 

In conclusion, McCall's doesn't even have a listed Archive Collection Section link.  I suppose, like Simplicity, they can't be bothered.  Let the train wreck mentality set in; you have to check the new patterns every blasted time, rather than go to a specific link.  That's sort of an internet web build fail right there. 

I really want to make the Hepburn jacket for a doll. >.>;;  *twitch*

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