Wednesday, May 7, 2014

Commission: Fishcake's SD Girl Bohemian Sophie Has Commanded!

Paid in full, fabric and thread has arrived.

This project started as another knee length yukata for bohemian cutie Sophie.  Also a Patrick Kelly One Seam Cocoon Coat. Added was a scarf.

I suspect Sophie has been using some mysterious Soom mind control, because what was received to make this simple yukata was brocade that would more likely be a very fancy kimono.  Now, you can get gorgeous kimono from Ichiroya and cut them down to wear as you please, so this makes authentic sense.  Kimono remake into 'street clothing' has been very popular in Japan and other countries for a while now.  Sophie would do that in a heart beat, so I'm making the brocade into a 'cut down kimono', with a full lining and neck and sleeve pieces, so she can swan about in style.

The Patrick Kelly Cocoon Coat has its inspiration from Poirot and the like around the 10's and 20s of the 20th century, which in turn was inspired by North African Bedouin wear.  Sophie being Sophie, I have to make a turn of the century Erte-like turban to go with it.  I have no idea why, I just know that if I don't, something awful will happen.



 Also a belidi scarf, which is the full size cover a body with chiffon scarf 'belly' dancers wave around and wiggle their hips behind and generally drape over and torment very shy people with.





I just had to go digging and found some yellow/gold stuff for the neck and sleeve opening trim, and some mauvy brown lining for the kimono, and Sophie's favorite paisley for the lining of the bronze  lamé cocoon coat (unless otherwise?) And the purple in the chiff really picked up in the photo, it's more pantherish in that you can't see the pattern unless it's in a certain light.  This was taken in front of the very sunny window so the colors are a bit off even after adjustment on my computer.  They are all gorgeous in reality!


One of the first things I learned in theater is that brocade of any make (silk or polyester or blend) and metallics (plastic) need to be lightly and quickly steam ironed, with a towel over them, to fully shrink them, because the hot water method won't do it.  You can loose up to 3/4 of an inch per inch on some brocades. It's a nightmare when that happens in the middle of a production and all your costumes for all the kids in your production of "Anna and the King" or the "King and I" are suddenly hand me downs by two sizes before they are even made!  Never mind your king's pants and vest. I will be ironing this evening.

June 3, 2014

Blogger is being a pain and not letting me reply to comments again!
   @ Fishcake: Thank you so much for letting me have fun with this one!

June 4, 2014

I was working on the cocoon coat fabric today and had a major DUH moment.  The fabric for the cocoon coat does not need a lining. (Sets aside the paisley for something else later).  Hubby re the gold printed stretch velvet: "Ooo, Elvis fabric." *head desk*  I've got the cocoon coat mostly sorted, but what goes for Barbie does not go for Miss-legs-all-the-way-up-and-then-some.

June 6, 2014

I've had it with that so called one seam coat!  ARRGH!  Nope!  It's too 80s and too short and way too bulky to even be right for any BJD, let alone La Sophie.  The proportions are all wrong, the sleeve bulk to length is ridiculous.   Back to the original!  This is the Paul Poiret coat in the Metropolitan Museum.  (OMG, look it's paisley!  That's persistence of memory for you! O_o)

Met collection link


This is the pattern of said coat made by Folkwear.  

Folkwear #503
As you can see it has a few more than one seams, but the inspiration for the Patrick Kelly design is right there, in the seam he uses, lower down the lapel, which shapes the bum hugging silhouette of the back.  Also in the fold up to make the seam from back to front, giving the under arm drape a natural fall into folds.  But the drama of the correct drape is much better, especially for the velvet fabric I'm working with. It's a bit more work to tease out (Not buying any patterns; that would be like *gasp* reading the instructions, something I refuse to ever do!) but I think it's a much better style for a bjd.  

line detail of the folkwear pattern

 I'm going to smush the two patterns together.  And put a button on, because the Soom girls have boobs and the girls of the era who wore these coats wore binders to prevent their pearls from hanging all wrong.

JUNE 7, 2014  (I have to just let go of May now....why is it so hard, I got the 2014 part okay from the start!)

With a fresh brain (mine, well rested, not stolen from someone else--though it dose feel a bit A.B. Normal this morning) I got the fabric and pins out, and Rin, (who still has no make up on and is still in her flannel pj's) and got going with the draping.  Poiret was inspired by classical statuary and the Japanese influence, or Orientalism, and was a fan of just putting the fabric on a convenient body (mostly his lovely wife), so following his methods, I got the fool thing sorted. Sloppy photos.




The conclusion is that while Patrick Kelly started with a rectangle going horizontal, Poiret worked with it going vertical!  When there is another side to hold the back in place, you have that bottom cupping drape that must have been the equivalent of tight blue jeans at the time.  

June 20, 2014

I've got the coat done, but I'm holding off on the hat to show off everything.  The scarf is almost done, and the kimono is going to pattern today.  I want to make sure that it looks and hangs exactly for a Soom specifically.  I just have to get Antoinette's ankles stabilized to do the fitting. O_o 

June 28, 2014  

I had this finished a few days ago but the doctor's thing threw us off track for photos and now it's hotter then heck again and I swear dolls hate posing in heat.  Rin on the Soom body, which has settled under her, but needs 1/4 of an inch hacked off her neck.  And ankle caps for her flat feet.  I wanted this longer, but there's a trick to the patterning I seem to have missed.  Better done than bitter.  The turban is a hat, plunks on and off nicely, but we were both miserably hot (except I was wearing clothing. >.>;;  we had some issues with camera angles....)  and didn't want to fight with a too large wig that needs it's elastic replaced, so she's having a bad hair day under a hat.  Niether one of us was wearing make up, either, LOL!  I'll do her face up in WINTER.  It's too HOT right now. 



the kimono collar wouldn't stop flopping even with interfacing, so I looked around and swiped an Erte trick which he swiped from Japanese miko outfits.  Cord sewn in a pattern.  My japanese knots are fake as heck. I tried tutorials, but feh, no brain.  


I was looking for something to put on the turban, then found some gold purple and bronze bead work I had done for a practice piece and there it was, the back of the turban.  More Erte-ism creeping into my Poiret-ism. O_o  

And oh. my. gawd.  WHY?  I checked and it looked FINE on the camera screen!  >.<;;  Beautifully draped belidi size scarf, draped (on a nekkid slippery doll, too) just perfectly according to my belly dancing text book (sort of like a sloppy sari) and BLUR!  



Basically, you fold the scarf in half diagonally, tuck one into her waist band, and pull the other corner back, up and around and tuck it into her bra top strap.  
I'll start on the half kimono next week with the July projects.  

July 3, 2014

I've got the kimono cut out and ready to sew.  I had a bit of a glitch with the difference between Heian layering and modern layring and the sleeve display but I think I've got a work around for the effect I'm looking for.  The heian was open at the front, the modern open at the back, however...is worn with the sleeve hanging backward for effect. O_o  OMG the fraying!  Thank goodness for Fray Check.  Because shooting at the fabric would just be detrimental. >.>;;  
Forgot to add I anticipate shipping Monday, July 7. 

July 7, 2014

Well, that didn't work out. It's just not easy to predict how things will go in our lives now.  I'm to the point where the lining and the kimono are laying next to each other.  I will let it go till tomorrow when I'm sure I won't mess it up after a good nights sleep, something I have not had for three days.  

July 11, 2014

Yesterday afternoon I sat down to sew and my oh-so-clever thinking on putting the lining in and having the false inner kimono trim show on the sleeves kept converting to bad sci-fi physics and mobius constructs.  Sometimes this happens when I'm lining a jacket and I've never figured out how the 'formula' for bagging a lining gets so screwed up in my head, but this happened to other stitchers in the theatre costume shop too.  You pull the lining through a slash in the sleeve and then stitch up the sleeve in a jacket but not with a kimono, that's for certain.  It should be done today and then I can ship everything tomorrow.  My apologies again for the delays. >.<;;  

July 13, 2014

The kimono is done!  I just need to press it this morning and photograph it before the 101 degree threatened weather heats up to the impossible point.  Photos will be up by this afternoon and  I'll be shipping the order out Monday morning.  ^_^  

July 14, 2014

I didn't put it on the doll to photo because I chose my fights and Rin won.  The silicon sheeting won't stick, and the hot glue which worked great for all of 30 minutes has melted off in the heat.  I'm going to have to find a glue that sticks to silicon and resin or something.  Rubber Cement? o_o  I'll need it for the shoe project anyway.  So, along with the bizarre lighting in our living room ruining the color, I have to wonder as I constantly edit out my unlovely toes, did we ever see anyone's toes randomly in the background of photos before the invention of the digital camera?  O_o  *sips coffee*  
I'll be packing the whole order up to mail out today.  I think someone in the Weather Channel is on crack.  101, 90 this 90 that, and a 20% chance of rain. Probably boiling rain if the past few days is any indication.  While it looks normal length, I lengthened the sleeves to a more formal length and then shortened the hem to around the knee.  The false collar is sewn on the way 'real' ones are, with a catch stitch, so it will flop when the kimono is not on the doll.  The inner sleeves are actually a modified piping trim with which I outsmarted myself so much, much angst was had over, along with the mobius lining effect.  My solution to that is to never follow the 'how to bag a jacket lining' instructions for anything.  



You'll be expecting a suspiciously plain brown paper package, because I have this huge roll of brown paper and I'm questioning my sanity in paying for envelopes all this time when I could just make my own.  The neighbors will suspect you of doing more than hiding bodies now, but this 45 pounds of paper has to go.  ^__^  I can't wait to see Sophie in her new clothes!  I left the trim for the front of the turban up to you, because I was at a total loss for what you might like.  


1 comment:

  1. Oh, everything looks so wonderful! And I didn't know about ironing the brocades--I always wondered why they got weird after a washing sometimes, even in cold water! Thank you!! (Sophie looks so smug, too) :D

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