Monday, October 6, 2014

Commission: Soul Doll Zenith, Kahn wardrobe from Star Trek: Into Darkness

Finished!  Post moved to today's date.

MonkeyGraph's Soul Doll Zenith is getting another set of big billowy coats (I think Mr. Cumberbatch was born to sell long coats!)  I have most of the fabric on hand, but the texture of the black/grey trench the character swipes off the back of a patio chair in the get-away scene is problematic. That's the one I still need to locate.

This project is being slated for late April/May 2014. (EDIT: Yeah that worked. >.>;;)

I also found out that so many companies were doing riffs off the costumes that it was difficult to track down the actual designs worn in the movie.  And with the scenes being mostly close ups, fight scenes and distance shots of running and fighting, that was fun.  But I've nailed down the 'real' designs to the best of my ability.

Swiped from Google Images

Once again, Google Images
Anovos, the company doing the ripple collar coat version, also had some more correct versions of the basic uniform shirt and slacks.  I like the details on the knees.  A good pair of military pants should have some knee padding and reinforcement in the wear and tear areas.  They remind me of the detail reinforcement I've seen in older Italian military clothing.  Awesome pants!  
 Now, check the shoulder seam on what looks like a simple long sleeve t-shirt fitted tightly.  It's further forward than the normal, every day, 'right along the shoulder top' seam.  This is correct according to the movie screen shots of Mr. C.  The sleeves are set in, not just slapped on a tube of fabric with a straight seam.  The design is actually more a good pair of winter long underwear than a 'fitted t-shirt'.  The logo is rather shiny, like wet look paint fabric paint.  So, that's what I will just do; stencil a few sample pieces until I get it right, and then bang it on the finished shirt.
June 3, 2014

So, moving along with this, we may drop the grey swiped coat shown at the end of the movie.  The brown coat is what it's all about.  I need to query MonkeyGraph about the fit of the Cpt. John t-shirt so I can use that pattern for the long sleeve shirt.  The Zenith hands are an issue.  Getting it snug while getting it over those hands.  I may have to sneak in some little Volks microvelcro 'zippers'.  Same with the slacks, given his hands match his feet.  Lots of notes to make.  

June 3, 2014  (I realized I keep putting May still. >.<;;)

I've cut out the slacks to start with, while waiting on a photo of the doll in the other t-shirt.  I'm set on having to use some of the micro velcro, it's the only way, short of removing feet and hands to dress him. O_o  I do wish someone would come up with little shank buttons for bjds.  I know they have them in Asia, but why can't I find ANY over here in the USA?  

June 28, 2014

Okay, I've solved the knee patch issue.  It took four strands of cording sewn in after the fact, rather than the slightly larger cording I have sewn in from the start.  Good thing it's small enough to just run the doll making needle straight through the channels. O_o

July 23, 2014

I loose so much track of time.  But yes,  I have been working on this project!  I'm working on getting the slacks and long sleeve T done this weekend.  The knee patch part came out pretty good.  

August 14, 2014

Sorry this has been taking so long.  I'm down to the snaps and hem on the slacks finally.  I'm still trying to figure out how to make the silver snap/button part visible in the photos.  They are as closely fitted as I dare to make them and I hope still allow for the doll to pose. O_o  I keep forgetting how long in the legs BJDs are, the pants always look so loooonnnngg by them selves.

Sept 8, 2014

Sorry this is taking so long. >.<;;  I got the rest of the patterning done today.  Finally figured out how they made that collar on the Khan coat. It's actually surprisingly simple. O_o  The hard part will be sewing the pleather pleats in to place.  This is on my stuff to finish this month list.  I'll do my best! 

Sept 27, 2014

I must not have hit the save button on my last update for this project? o_o  Or T-mobile failed me miserably?  WTH?

So, for a quick run down of what's on, the t-shirt is ready for it's snaps and I'm going to do some test work on the icon stencil this week.  The pants still need to be hemmed and snapped and I'm still wondering how to make that silver button/snap look at the fly-top.  The jacket is pretty much all together except for the collar which I've been working on all week.  All of my 'tricks' are not working on such a small scale because--it's small.  They would work wonderfully on a larger scale, but for the size I need for this, it's ending hand work.  I'm too addicted to the sewing machine, I spent all week trying to get it to do it by machine and then realized yesterday (while sitting for an hour at the DMV) that I could have done it all by hand in a few hours if I had only given up on the machine entirely and used a very old (centuries!)  hand technique.  DUH me!  O_o  So yes, at some point this weekend, photos and finished this week.

October 6, 2014

I keep looking at my "this week" and snorting.  I'm wondering when my life will be back on my scheduling again?  I had to redo the collar twice, lots of hand sewing, and then we got caught up with more appointments and surgery (the lipoma thing I posted about) and now I'm down to a few snaps and the stencil on the shirt.  ^_^ I'm going to finish that up tonight and wait for the very good lighting to do the photographs tomorrow and I am way too proud of how the collar came out. I couldn't get it seriously tiny, but I think it does capture the 'look'.  I can't tell how the coat closes in the movie stills, but I'm putting snaps down the front just in case, so the doll can wear it closed sometimes.  The rumpled cuffs came out well, too, another new thing I've learned.

October 7, 2014

I was trying to get the photos to come out good, but the light was actually too bright and after an hour or so of fighting with it, and the shiny pleather, I went Zen on it and gave up.  The pleather is a bit stiff and will probably need to be squashed with a book or something.  I didn't dare steam it after seeing some pleather on a coat made by a company that was all cracked at the seams and fold lines.  Best to just leave well enough alone.  Chris is my model since he was the first guy I grabbed to put the shirt on to do the stencil and he is a few CMs slimmer in the torso, bigger other places, and taller than the outfit is made for.  I still need to go over everything with a sticky tape roller to get rid of all the lint and Tama decided to photo bomb.  The moment the photo session was over, he stopped insisting on being on the table and walked off.   I'm very happy with the way the sleeve plackets came out.  The Zenith guy has huge hands and to get everything to fit close as possible, plackets were the only answer.  I'm going to check the pant length again, too.  I think the Zenith has a shorter torso, because I know I used the inseam/outseam measure. And the pants look wide a the knees because the reinforced patch is making the front spread out.

I gave up on the fly button, unless I use a blob of metallic paint?
The customer can let me know if I should do that before shipping?  ^_^ 

Chris has a flat butt.  LOL!

Please excuse the fake fur rug.  Tama-cat has a thing for Chris.
He always wants to be in the photo when Chris models.

The coat in the movie was so like the Sherlock coat, I kept the back flare.

The collar makes it awkward to snap up, because it's so stiff. 
So, once I've taken the sticky roller to everything and checked that pant hem length, it's ready to go.  ^_^

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