Monday, December 2, 2013

Commission: Youkaimoon's Idealian 72; Kimono, Obis and Tabi.

Post moved up: Now on the sewing table.  In progress.

One Red Silk Kimono with a pieced lining of printed silk, 2 pairs of Tabi, and 3 Obi.
Also one pair of Tabi for a Soom Gem with Luts Senior Delf Feet.

These are the silk fabric photos sent to me by the customer. Gorgeous stuff.  It's to be worn as an outer kimono, and will look wonderful on a large doll like the Idealian.

The tabi are to be linen with cotton and the obi will be re-purposed silk ties.  I have an actual Japanese Tabi pattern I've been making people ones with, that will be miniaturized for the dolls.  The real ones close with pant hooks, but I'll use snaps on the doll ones. 

Correction: The Idealian is having toes separated and the Delf feet do have separated toes, so I had to charge extra for the more complicated work.  My Dragon Doll Uncles have sandal feet so I'm hoping to get a good "toe" fit on the tabi.  

Project to be finished before Christmas postal hell begins. 

Sept 26, 2013

The package with the fabric arrived safely and un-battered today, but I haven't had time to open it yet.  Because of orders I'm working on now, I've set it aside for October, not to be tempted by it. >.>;;

October 2, 2013

I'll start the patterning this week!  The fabrics are fantastic in reality, so much prettier than the photos could even show.  Just gorgeous!

October 9, 2013

I've patterned the Kimono and want to test it on a friend's Idealian.

Nov 18, 2013

Moved the post up in the que and it's on the table, finally.  I want to put together the pattern test kimono first then make the adjustments and go on from there.

Nov 22, 2013

The foot tracings for the tabi are very nicely done. I was surprised to see how opened the toes were on the Idealian.  I'd like to see how that finished.  Now I'm at the point where I roll out the gorgeous fabric and think...omg, i have to cut this.  I'm setting my goal to mail the finished project out Dec 2.  The apartment repairs are NOT being done, AGAIN and I have no idea when they might be done, so I'm just going on as usual while arguing with management over the bs they keep giving me. They can pull the building down around me, I'm sticking to MY schedule.

Nov 30, 2013

As usual, my plans have been destroyed.  I managed to get everything cut out, but it took a few days more than projected with being overtired from hubby's bronchitis trying to turn into pneumonia.  I don't touch fabric when I'm over tired, I don't want to make mistakes with customers fabric, especially one of a kind stuff.

The good news is, everything is pinned for the first round of sewing.  I need to be very careful with the lining fabric, so rather than use the traditional pattern for it, I'm going to sew up the front and back of the outer shell and then use that to pattern the lining and seam the lining at the shoulder seams.  This will put the part of the lining with the pretty gold embossing on the flowers in the front lower overlaps so that when the kimono is worn draped open, they can be shown.

The tabi would have been a real puzzle if I hadn't bought the pattern for people.  Not too many sources on line for a good pair of tabi.  They're like making gloves, you need to account for things in small spaces, and very precise amounts of fabric at very precise angles.

Dec 2, 2013

I'm at the point where I have to do a ton of pinning (the tabi) and hand sewing, and because the pieces actually look like something besides a pile of fabric with pins in finally, photos!  I absolutely should be done by tomorrow night (Tuesday) and that's allowing for anything going wrong with the machine, etc., sewing the tabi up, because they are fidgety little bits.  So that's aiming for shipping any time Wednesday, or after, at the customer's convenience   I want to sew one up of each and put the cardboard tracing in them before I go any further.  I've already had to adjust the pattern pieces twice and I've got some adjusting to do on the pieces as well, but the final effort of one of the Idealian's is looking much better.  I over compensated on the extra wrap around.

The white extra collar for the kimono and the Obi made from silk ties. 

The kimono color doesn't read well on my camera no matter what I do, but it's showing the lay out of the medallians so I'm going to live with it.  It's pinned to sew, and thats the neck piece on the lower side there.  

There was just enough width to do the lining this way because the edges of the kimono had to be rolled back to finish anyway, and I tucked the raw edges under, rather than having them come all the way out to the edge too.  Very close shave.  I wanted to try to get the honeycomb lined up along the back, but that would have meant cutting a piece right out of the middle of the other piece of fabric and the flowers look better this way. The gilding on the flowers on one piece are now on the front the open kimono where they can be shown off a little.  Every scrap of silk is going back to the customer and I didn't dare follow my usual procedure and wash the customer's fabric because of the color dying of the medallions   This is officially a dry clean only item. I'm thinking that the red dye would murder that beautiful cream and block printed fabric. 

Dec 4, 2013

I'm getting a little more done each day.  I keeping thinking, tomorrow, I'll be done, tomorrow I'll be done, but they have me running around for paperwork and teaching me how to cope and I'm exhausted  but I'm hoping to be done this week.  I've done all the hand sewing I can, now it's time to make a few hours for the sewing machine.  

Dec 5, 2013

Okay!  Finally.  I'm down to just the tabi soles and snaps and it's done.  I'm waiting for another appointment for paper work, and hoping next week I have adjusted to a new schedule.  That's a Chinese ornament thing hanging from a shelf in the living room, had to try a daylight photo for that luscious red.  

Dec 8, 2013

Idiot that I am, I forgot to sew the white collar piece on. I used the 'temporary' stitch normally used to put on this morning, then found some more issues with the tabi I had pinned and basted to sew, like switching the wrong soles on two. >.> but that's sorted now.  I still need to trim the seams so I can turn those tiny toe areas properly, but they were good in the test fit!  12 snaps to sew on and I'm done.  I'll get that done and take proper photos of everything tomorrow evening.  

Dec 9, 2013.  

So much for that idea.  I had so much running around to do today and more forms to fill out and dealing with an ass hat of a doctor, who basically yelled at me because my husband dared to have a stroke and take up a bed in his hospital, that I didn't get the snaps sewn on.  I'm not going anywhere tomorrow morning (it's after 9:30 pm now) until those snaps are on, the outfit is photographed and I've washed the Tabi and hung them up to dry because they are a bit dusty and chalk marked from being lugged around in my sewing kit all week.       

Dec 10, 2013

That loud bonking noise you here in the distance is me banging my head on the wall.  I was putting the snaps on the Tabi this morning, finally, and the hospital kept calling about this that and everything else to do with transferring the hubby to a physical therapy boot camp.  It's pretty far away so I begged them to keep him there until evening and went in to sit with him, still sewing the snaps on.  I got the delf ones done and then on the last Idealian tabi, when I held them up to match something's gone very wrong.  I've got one Idealian tabi to remake so it matches the good one of the set.  I won't be having to run back and forth any more since he's off to San Bernardino proper (you know the city going bankrupt...) and it's a hell of a drive, so we agreed I'm only going on Friday mornings.

Dec 11, 2013

I got off to such a good start after a lunch break today and then all the phone calls and more info dumping began and I didn't get into the sewing room until 4 pm.  But it's done!  I matched the new tabi line for line with basting stitching first this time, and it went together right the first time.  Another new patter, another lesson learned.  The tabi are in the hypoalergenic soap soaking now to get rid of all the god knows what they might have picked up besides chalk from my sewing kit being lugged back and forth.  As soon as they are dry tomorrow I will press and pack them up and ship them.  They look a bit squiggly now from lack of pressing.  But the photo on the pattern proper looks the same so I'm not panicking. O_o  I used those clear snaps, you have to press down on them on the sides firmly but then they really stay snapped, which surprised me the first time I tested one.  I wish they made them smaller.

As good a photo as I could get under swirly bulb light of the faux collar.  

Showing off the traditional herringbone stitch used to attach the changeable collar on kimono.  

Now, this set got a lot of interest from hospital workers and medical imaging techs, and even the hubby's physical therapists at the hospital.  Both men and women thought the kimono was just beautiful.  They were fascinated by the fabric and where it came from and how the red must have been a vintage obi (I believe it was from the weave of it and narrow length) and the gorgeous printing and detail work on the lining. All of this is Youkaimoon's praise for her taste in fabric and skill in collecting pieces. ^_^  I'm just the seamstress. 
I got to have this beautiful thing to brighten my day in the worst time of my life and for that I am truly greatful.
I want to thank Youkaimoon for her patience (as always) and faith in me as a worker.  This has given me the strength to say "I'm self employed and will continue to consider myself so" to all the repeated questions.

Thank you. 

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