Tuesday, September 3, 2013

Commission: Idealian 72, Awesome Pants for Ophiaca

Ophiaca on Den of Angels' updating commission report.
Note: Post moved to up to Start Date for project organization.  Sept 3, 2013

This is why I do this work!  I would have never seen such an awesome designer's work without other people pointing the way.  I can already see some more fabulously complicated designs by this Designer I would love to try for my own dolls! ^_^

The designer is Rick Owens and I do hope I can do his designs justice.

Kahki Green fabric for this pair.

Red-Brown for this pair. 

More under the cut link! 

A pair of Cargo pants, in Dark Olive Green or Davy's gray

A pair of pants with an over kilt, in Black Bean/Rosewood or black
    I have some questions re these, it looks like the main part of the pants are in cotton knit while the over kilt is in woven cotton.  The design seems to call for the pants being a knit fabric, because the first layer of over hanging skirt looks knit as well. 

A pair of underwear, briefs that are like short bike shorts with a fly (there must be a name for these things!) in white cotton. 

Customer has paid a deposit, production to begin in September.  (why does blogger always change up the font? O_o)  I fully expect to finish the order by the end of September if not sooner.  Shipping cost to be determined when the completed garments are ready to ship. 

I was heading out to the fabric store anyway, so I put the color chart swatches in my tablet and decided to go with the black bean and dark khaki green.  I hope this is good.  I can always switch one or the other of the colors and toss this in my fabric stash.  Photographed in noon sun with an off white towel under the fabric to keep it clean.  Inside photos to follow will show the fabric darker of course.  

August 16, 2013 Update

Double checking details and color/style choices for this order.  

August 17, 2013  Update

Details are now locked down.  For the pants under the kilt, I'm going to take a good look again at some other Rick Owens pants, and use one of his more basic designs, so the over kilt will be removable to make a different look.  I think when you strip down the style it owes a lot to the historical Mongol style pants.  

From the Empire of Khan Web Ring
Sept 6, 2013

Late start this month, but everything is ready to start Monday 9.  ^_^

Sept 10, 2013

I've been sketching what I can see of the seam work on the designer's pants while the fabric soaked to remove all the excess dye and preshrink it.

I'm going to have to do this in steps:

  1. Pattern the doll basic slacks.  
  2. Pattern the designer's basic style lines from that base pattern.  
  3. Break down the decorative seaming into pattern pieces.  
  4. Pattern the over kilt based on the 2nd pattern part.  
This may take a few days, but it's the most complicated part of the project. After that it's just sewing! ^_^V 

Sept 12, 2013

Okay, I've broken down the pants design into a sketch, and the boxer/briefs are cut out and ready to sew.
The heavy lines are all double stitched like jeans, and the layered pockets make more sense when you sit down and sketch them out.  My horrific lack of artistic ability on display for the world.

The bands that go over the edges on the sides of the pants are wrap around, from the middle front seam to the back like the loop on painter's jeans.  There is no fly.  They are pull up drawstring pants.  I'm going to make the side pockets, which look to be really deep going by the photos, and the patch pocket on the front working, the back pockets will just be flaps, and so forth.  The crotch is low on the inner thigh, I'll keep it in 'human looking proportion' visually, as if the doll had let the waist down to his high hip for comfort.  

Now, with this as the base design, I'm thinking use the same pattern for under the kilted design, but with out all the fancy pockets and straps, because the Kilt has the pockets, belt loops and interesting seam lines.  The basic pants will just be simply pants, with the kilt part going on over them.  So basically, two separate units. 

I still need to break down that pattern of seams on the over kilt.  It's a very dark photo, so I'm going to run it through photo shop and see what that will do to help. Other wise it's forensic squinting at it's finest! LOL! 

Sept. 13, 2013

Just a small update: the briefs are cut out! LOL!  Still patterning, now I'm breaking down the seams and things of the basic pattern.  

Sept 16, 2013  

Still patterning, still confident of a Sept 27 finish if not earlier.  

Sept 19, 2013

The basic pattern is done.  I still have to sort the kilt part, but it's been one of those weeks.  I found the best draw string for the pants today.  I didn't want to use a ribbon or anything like that, but I was looking for ribbon for another project and saw something I thought was twill tape. It was LINEN braid. Natural color linen braid, 3/8 inch wide, just perfect!  
By Monday (California time) I'll have some half finished pants to show off.  ^_^  

Sept 20, 2013

I got a photo this morning, debated over giving away the pattern and then thought Oh to hell with it, people can knock off as easily as I can if they want to.  All the pockets and false pockets are diagrammed and these are one of the first things I make that will actually have my 'company label' in them.  I was sort of conflicted about that, too, since it's a mini knock off of a major designer, but then again, O_o;; when in doubt, err toward the excess. (?)   

Evening update

O. M. God. this designer is brilliant.  Looking at the break down, I'm just O_O  I love the whole look! (I want a pair now. >.>;;) 

Some of the lines are just draped fabric, some are seams, so I went with what made sense.
The oval on the side is the open side pocket.

The slightly wet paper towel breakdown.  Paper towels the muslin of dolls!
I wish they made human size paper towels.
(Yes, I was doing laundry, not eating lunch.  >.>;;  got a house to run. ^_^)

And the break down with all the seams and grain lines.
I used a vase with the same measurements (close enough) of the doll's upper legs
 and abdomen, then compared the result to the tape shell Youkaimoon did for me.  
Side pocket, pocket flap on the back left side and a waist band already patterned for the basic Idealian pair.  Ready to hit the fabric Monday!

Sept 25, 2013 Update

My camera hates me.  Or the over head light in my sewing studio is going out.  Seems awfully dim in there and then the flash drains everything of color.   The fabric has NOT changed color.  But at least this way you can see all the seams and things neatly.

These are the basic pants to go with the kilt. I put pockets to mach the back of the green pants, but not side pockets.  The waist band on this will be a draw string one like the originals. Normally my work table is faux mahogany color so you can see there's a major color issue with this photo.  

The kilt is mostly done, I put the side pocket in.  The back flap pocket is faux, but I noticed there was a button on it, so button it shall.  The button is brown, despite the camera turning it an odd green? O_o  And the top stitching isn't done yet.  This will have a waist band and belt loops.  

The green pants...omg...the table...anyway! I will change that light bulb tomorrow.  All the pockets and so forth are ready, I just need to start assembling the pants.  This pair will also have the draw string as in the original.  Almost all the pockets are working except the pocket under the big front one.  

This does not look white.  These are white.  I'm not so sure about the depth of the pattern.  Idealians have a LOT going on and while I want to make them fitted enough to stay put on his legs and not get into his joints, I'm not so sure about the movement room I put in the hip spread.  I also need to get wider elastic than the 3/8 I got.  The 3/8 inch wide looked strangely tiny on the big boy pants.  

I'm thinking this might go into the weekend because of another project I'm bound to have shipped by Friday.  It was an Etsy order and I don't like extending Etsy orders because they ding you for it and start sending you helpful messages about how to run your business.  >.>;;  

Sept 26, 2013 Update

Okay, the other order is done and while I was working on it, I figured out the briefs problem.  I'm going with a people pattern that has a seam up the back, but I know the briefs fit and work better and shouldn't get in the doll's joints.  I anticipate being ready to put the order in a shipping bag by Monday afternoon.  I'll put up more photos as the work progresses. 

Sept 30, 2013 Update: Finished!  

I lost daylight by the time I finished the brown pants, but I did manage to borrow an Idealian!  (Who was so not cooperative! I ended up posing him clinging to the japanese screen, photos are cropped for the poor doll's sake >.>)  So, the pants go on a bit snug, but not too tight over the thighs.  It's cotton so it should stretch out a bit.  

I did revise the briefs pattern, based on a KwikSew one.  Daylight, bright white.  No panic, it's just a bit of link on them, not ink or anything (PHEW!) I had a panic, then checked and omg, it was just lint.  Then I fiddled with it in photo shop to try to bring out the detail.  They are basically mini real ones. ^_^ 

The green pants details.  One in daylight, one on the work table that sent me out to the daylight.  I pressed the inseam after I took the photos.  I have to get all the lint and so forth off, clip threads and pack everything up neatly tomorrow.  Good lord the color changes. O_o  I'm worried about my one year old camera now. The best color is the one of the fabric in noon sun, with the brown pants being I would say, coffee bean under inside light and the green a definite khaki green. 

Daylight living room.

Under fluorescent with flash. 

 And the wearing of the pants. (O_o neon?)  Almost ALL the pockets on the green ones are working pockets.  I did notice that the right hand of the Idealian doesn't go into the side pockets because his hand is spread so far, but the left hand goes in.

With and without the kilt.  The kilt has a working side pocket.  The back flap is for show.  The little bright bit down on the left leg back is a refection.  You can see it's not there in the next back side photo. 

I tried to show it hanging in the same way as the original pants.
Store the kilt rolled up and it should hang like this all the time,
because of the bias weave.  
I didn't put a lot of pockets on the basic pants, because of the bulk build up that would occur under the kilt.  This pair is just a tad snug over the thighs, but they go on.  It's like thighs, butt, ON! (someone could stop lifting weights...I've never handled one before and I think I need a chiropractor.  OMG HEAVY!)

Working back pockets on the basic pants. 

I was hoping more detail would come out in the posed photos but I'm just too whacked to fight with the camera.   Open the photos in a new tab or window for the full size photos. 

Tomorrow I'll tidy them up and pack them up and weight them so I can find out what the shipping will be and then let Ophiaca know the balance due. ^_^ 

Addendum: I'm going to switch out that brown pants waistband in the morning. I think I used the one for the kilt rather than the same as the green pants.  It needs another half inch when I compare it to the green ones.  But yes, the set will be ready to go tomorrow morning.  

October 1, 2013   The waist band is switched for an appropriate sized one and the packages is ready to go. Waiting an address to determine shipping costs.  

October 4, 2013  Shipped! ^_^  
Note to self: No matter what post office says, bill on the outside for customs inspection.  I have to get some plastic package thingies.  The post office was out of them. O_o 


  1. That looks all so cool already! I envy you for being able to create a pattern from photos.
    This process is really exciting to watch.

  2. OMG This looks all so and perfect and small and detailed and... O_o I envy your skills! My boy will look so cool in these! XD

    1. I'm so glad you're happy with them, I'm having fun making them as like the 'real' ones as possible. ^_^

  3. When I commissioned these pants I was hoping you could create something similar - but my hopes were far surpassed. I'm overwhelmed with all the details, the working pockets, decorative stitching and everything! I wish Dover could wear both pants at the same time, it's a shame to have one in the cupboard and the undies hidden underneath. I'm happy I asked you about this commission, I wish I had found you earlier! LOL

    1. Thank you so much, it was a wonderfully challenging project! ^_^


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