Wednesday, July 3, 2013

65 cm Soul Doll Zenith Sherlock Suit

Updating progress report for MonkeyGraph for an Etsy commission:
2 shirts (white and deep purple) 1 2-piece suit (black), paid in full on Etsy for her Soul Doll Zenith.

Image Credit:
July 3, 2013

I was thinking one button, but having squinted again, 2 buttons it is. 
Project is awaiting measurements.  Fabric on hand.

Note: See this post on pant length and how to get a doll neatly into a suit. ^_^  Any questions, let me know, email link is on the side bar.

July 8, 2013

Just a pattern thinking update.  I'm wondering about the slop of the doll's shoulders.  I'm thinking I'd better send a fitting muslin test for this one.  Unless the customer would like to try a tape and paper shell (which I believe I did mention but didn't remind her she had the option of?  ^_^

July 20, 2013  Update.

Still awaiting measurements on the shoulder width, so I'm going to start with the slacks on Monday.

July 23, 2013  Update

OMG the internet is back!  (HUGS IT)  I will officially go crazy without my internet service.  T-mobile 'Edge' was so slow!  One page per 3 minutes load, 1.5 hours download for a 5 minute hair curling tutorial.  I think the fire must have taken out a tower, because the OC had NO service the day before.  Enough ranting.  I'm patterning everything this week, and doing double checks, so the finish date will be a week or so later than expected.  Along with the heat slowing everything down.  Once I have everything cut out, it's usually a week or less for a suit and one shirt, so it should be a fairly fast wrap up.  Unless the electric company fails again like last summer, and the summer before and the summer before...rate hikes for what?  Renewing the system?  When?

July 27, 2013 Update

I've been fighting a head cold this week (thanks to the man of the house) and the worst seems to be over.  Back on track for the patterning, and hoping to show that everything is cut out by Monday night.  It has not been the best of weeks.  I'm very sorry for the delay.

July 29, 2013 Update.

Okay, the shirts are cut out.  I wanted to find a neat way to do a button hole placket like the real thing without all the extra bulk that adds even to a human shirt, and it turned up today while I was tearing my hair out over it.  Trade secret, not telling! ^_^

I don't know why but I had to tear up my whole sewing studio to find more black lining.  The right black lining.  The suit fabric is an Italian blend I got ages ago, and it's in need of a more substantial lining than the nice wool I used for the Detective Greatcoat. Naturally it was in the very last huge bin on the top shelf of the closet.  How do closets get so blasted HOT.  Now I just have to find the black 'barbie' sized buttons for the jacket sleeves.  They're around here somewhere!  O_o I am organized, I swear, that's the problem.  Everything has a place.  Finding that place after organizing....

I have to narrow out the jacket pattern's lapels, and I did narrow out the shirt pattern, because my guys wear lose shirts and the character wears more closely fitted shirts.  I went half way though, because a doll has more posing issues than a human being. Close but not binding.  I don't know if I can find plum buttons, black might have to do.  But the purple I found looks really dark in some lights and purple in others so I hope it's good.  I'll have the suit cut out tomorrow, and be ready to start sewing.  I checked my figures and had a company measure of 18.5 cm for the Zenith when the customer got 18, which explains why the coat sleeve came out a bit longish.  See what I mean about company measures. >.<;;

July 31, 2013  Update for button choice.

The purple buttons look very close under old and new light bulbs and well into a room, but right under natural window light, no flash and with flash, that's the question?  Choice can wait a while since buttons are the last thing to go on. The lower ones are basic black, not a dark purple.

daylight through window screen (cloudy)

with a flash
August 2, 2013 Update

T-mobile ALWAYS messes up with in a week of the bill being paid, why is that? O_o  I couldn't get this photo to load yesterday.  Everything is cut out, marked, pinned up for the first round, and ready for sewing this weekend.  I'm hoping for Monday evening, guessing Tuesday.  Definitely this coming week.

August 5, 2013 Update

Test knitting on a scarf, and the white shirt for a background (still needs buttons and holes, and some threads clipped).  Right now the wool/nylon blend is a bit stiff, but once it's done (about 20 inches long, with fringes hand tied on) and washed and blocked, it should soften up and be flexible.  Everything else is in various stages of pins and threads and so forth.  I save the buttons and holes for last because it's usually one of those things where you sew 3 and pull out 2 for every one that looks just right.  Right click and open in a new tab or window for the larger picture. ^_^

August 7, 2013 Update

The shirts are done except buttons and holes, the pants are half done, and the jacket is half done.  I took the customer's advice and slowed down a bit (was rushed from everything else going on) and anticipate shipping at the end of the week if not sooner (Fate, I'm keeping an eye on you!)  One of the things that struck me while I was making the pattern for the coat was that I was once again knocking off a designer rather than a manga drawing. For the design and 'feel' of a Spencer Hart jacket, I went to the web site, as well as hitting Google images and while the Sherlockology site says 2 buttons, I kept seeing only 1 button everywhere.  However I designed for 2.   But then again, hey!  Manga!  So it's kind of a closed circle.  I'm thinking of buying the manga if the raw version has furigana (annotated Kanji).  Oddly, CDJapan, my go to, isn't stocking it.  YesAsia has the one tankoubon though. 

Kodakawa page grab, with Google translate (link here)
Later the same day....

I could just KICK T-mobile!  Third try...

My chalk splattered sewing table, it never looks bad until it's in photos.  The purple shirt just needs buttons and holes.  And a little thread clipped in the collar. The flash makes the thread shine more than it does in reality.

The suit is in it's last stages despite the 'look' of things.  When I finish it, I'll have to wash off the chalk lines and let it dry then press and pack it up.  You can just see the edges of some of the interfacing on the back, fronts and sleeve tops. and the little rectangles in the upper right quadrant are the shoulder pads, because the Zenith has very sloped shoulders.  By tomorrow evening it will be hanging up to dry in my sewing room with the doors and windows shut to avoid any random 'bar-be-cue' on the neighbor's part.  

And the charcoal color gift scarf (I couldn't find Navy anywhere without ordering it) of 75 wool/25 nylon sock weight.  The best would be a lace weight mohair or cashmere, and probably easily found on Etsy, but I didn't know the time involved in shipping and didn't want to chance it.  I wanted to see if I could manage to make one right that worked without a lot of bulk and in scale and on my Dragon Doll guys, and my AngelsDoll it looks about right. Just--not navy.  If I could get hold of 4-ply navy and spit it into 2 ply, that would be better, but still, when there is fine lace weight out there, somewhere...(must stop obsessing for now!) 

Edit: This is a decent price for Cashmere lace weight and the color is very nice, but maybe a bit dark?  Still, it's better than the 62$ one I found earlier.   Their linen might do in a pinch, too. 

Estimated grm/yardage, probably about this one:
Storm Silk Cashmere Lace Weight Recycled Yarn, 574 yards

Weight 36 grams or 1.3 ounces.
Estimated yardage 574 yards.

August 8, 2013 Update

Not as much progress as I had striven for.  Lots of picking out and re-doing to get things just so.  The hardest parts are over now.  I might get some more done later tonight.  So far all that's needed are:
Shirts: Buttons and holes.
Slacks: Finish waist band, snaps on fly, hems.
Jacket: Sleeves, shoulder pads, hem, buttons and holes.

And of course then everything needs to have the chalk washed out and be dried and pressed, etc.  I can definitely say it will be shipping Saturday.

August 10, 2013 Update: Finished! 

And now I will take a sledge hammer to my sewing machine.  It turned 20 little button holes into a nighmare that took two days to solve.  New bobbin, new needles, a crack in my button hole making foot, and then finally, the holes on the wrong sides of the cuffs, so I had to switch them out and OMG, I don't know what happened.  So, with a bit of stray fluff on the back of the purple shirt, which I brushed off, and the black fabric not liking being photographed, and suits never looking good just laying there, I packed everything up, shipped it out.  The scarf is tucked into paper in the jacket to keep it from getting crushed.  

Now, maybe I'm just over tired, but it seems to me the purple is lighter than on my screen.  

The hip pockets on the jacket work, the breast pocket is fake.  The front pockets on the slacks work, and the back pockets are fake.  This entire outfit was made from measurments only, so I'm hoping everything fits right and that MonkeyGraph will send me pictures of the doll in the outfit. ^_^  

August 15, 2013

I'm pulling this report back into play until we get the left jacket sleeve issue solved.  It is not going over the left hand.  I suspect he has one hand more open then the other? I'm paying for shipping both ways, it's an easy fix.  ^_^

August 19, 2013

Rather blurry, but issue resolved.  I have a tapered pressing wand for doll clothing and the 12 cm end fits through the left sleeve now from armhole to cuff.  I altered the sleeve then put in a new sleeve lining.  The odd ball proportions shouldn't be obvious in photos.  It's going in the mail tomorrow morning.  ^_^

August 20, 2013 Status: Shipped! 

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