Tuesday, May 7, 2013

Commission: Cardcaptor Sakura for a Dollfie Dream Sister

Commission for Mewcat at Trinity Complex: 3 outfits.

This is a cute one!  Traditional yukata and obi, seifuku, frilly dress!  Clamp always has a fascinating array of costumes for their characters.  I did some online research to find the back views, not sure about the back of the Obi on the yukata, but it looks like it might be a standard floppy bow with fringe on the tails. The double points on the back of most outfits in Cardcaptor Sakura (the pink uniform) seem to be a theme with this manga/anime.

cardcaptor sakura costumes dollfie dream sister Ball Joint Doll clothing
Images by Clamp: Kinamoto Sakura from Card Captor Sakura 


Estimated time for this project: Changed now to 4 weeks for all three garments.  Due to timing and plans, the customer can wait to pay and have me ship when she is ready, but it's imperative to get the fitting toil back and forth, and I've allowing time for that in the estimate.

This commission covers: 

The school uniform: Navy blue and White collar  Blouse, scarf, White skirt and cap w/black ribbon. (adorable!)
Logo on sleeve, image in project file.

The frilly dress, plus neck ruffle and odd socks with frills and ribbons.

The yukata and obi.

May 10, 2013

After two days of clearing up some other projects and a big fight with Norton 360 (buy it from Amazon NOT the online Norton place. >.<;;) I got time to organize on this project yesterday.

The fabric from Spoonflower came out beautiful!  This is my first time handling their stuff and I'm really impressed.  Gives me terrible idea over load.  Must. Resist.  I'm happy with the selection, for the most part, except the poly double knit navy blue.  My concern is that it won't hold a pleat very long.  This is the fabric for the pleated skirt. I'll have to use the vinegar and water trick on it.  That sets in pleats, on wool and polyester, usually.

All the fabric is washed, preshrunk and ready to cut out when I have the toil back and the pattern corrected.

May 13, 2013


Comparing the Dollfie Dream Sister to my dolls for patterning.
Finally, the fitting toil is ready to go in the mail tomorrow (Tuesday) The heat wave just killed all my plans this past weekend.  So much for saving on the electric bill. I wanted to do a write up on how I use a fitting toil so here's a rough draft.

It's very basic, and simple.  You take a dulled #2 pencil, some pins or safety pins and put this rough muslin dress on the doll.  Then you just mark it as explained in the photo (open the image in another tab or window to see it full size).



Sometimes the muslin toil is a mock up of a more complicated garment like an Edwardian coat or something, but I'm patterning for standard stuff so this simple shift dress is what I'm using for the Dollfie Dream Sister.  I mail it to the customer, they try it on and mark where it's too tight and too lose, or where the shoulders need to be taken up or the armholes re-cut, and make notes about what's wrong with the dress. Then it gets mailed back to me for re-patterning.

While I wait for the toil to travel back and forth, I'll pattern the yukata and obi and work on them.

May 14, 2013 Update

Toil on it's way to customer, despite local post office insisting the town does not exist.  Then again, when we moved here, they insisted my address did not exist, either.  Umm...this building was built in 1948.  I think it's been here a while. Reality: If it's not in the computer, it does not, can not, exist.  >.<;;  No, maybe your computer is just not programmed, duh!

Starting work on the yukata and obi this evening now that the weather is MUCH cooler.

May 18, 2013 Update

MewCat has received the muslin test (yesterday) and what with all the trauma of broken glasses around here (TWO pair in one week, first the man's good ones and then his old 'emergency' ones three days later! O_o) and the man thing finally off to the optometrist and re-glassed (with insurance this time) and I no longer have to play chauffeur,  I can focus on my sewing again.  Because I've been wanting to do this for some time, I'm combining the yukata patterning for this project with all my girly dolls getting yukata as well.  The yukata project post is here.  Because the DDS doll has a smaller bust than my SD girl, and is going to be made with specially printed fabric from SpoonFlower, I want to get my girl's pattern right first, and then make the adjustments carefully for the DDS girl.

May 19, 2013 Update

Patterning is looking good.  I'm almost done with my SD girl's yukata and will be checking the fit  against the Dollfie Dream Sister's measurments tomorrow after I get the obi sorted.  Yukata project file updated.

May 24, 2013  Update

Not that my SD girl's Yukata and Obi are done to my satisfaction, I'm ready to cut into the customer's custom printed fabric.  There was a bit of a redo on the SD size pattern, but I wasn't about to touch the customer's stuff until I knew the pattern was correct, and any issues with the over 58 cm tall girls was under control.  The length ratios on the dolls are no where near human so I did have to sort some issues between human fitting and doll fitting even on something as visually simple as a couple of rectangles sewn into a t-shaped garment.

May 27, 2013 Update

The yukata and obi for this project are now in the hand sewing stage.  I haven't photographed yet, because everyone and his dog is here for a barbecue.  GRRRRRRR!  I had to put everything away to avoid not only the man thing's Memorial Day sacrificial meats, but the neighbor's as well this weekend.  If it weren't for the embroidery on the sleeve and figuring out how to get that neat little ruffle on the edge of the frilly dress, I'd estimate things done by next Monday, but I'm putting it at Monday, June 10, just to be on the safe side and not rush things.  I know my machines do what's known as a "lingerie" edging (image sample from another blog) that might just make that mini-scallop on the white and pink skirts, if I set it for a slightly shorter scallop. But having never made fancy underwear (hows that for Karma biting me in the butt! LOL!) I haven't had the occasion to try out or ever use the stitch. o_o  And YET, it seems perfect for getting that little fluttery edge on the layers of the skirt. So I'll do my best!
Photos of the yukata and obi tomorrow evening.  Because of the hip/bum factor, my girl can model, even though her boobies are bigger.  It will just be shorter on her.
FYI, a Yukata and Obi are half machine and half hand sewing, so the machine part is only like 1/4 of the whole thing.  I figure a day for hand sewing and photography.

May 28, 2013  Update.

I'm going to double check the waist on the Obi again tomorrow, but for tonight, with my girl being a good 6 cm taller, 1 cm longer arms,  bigger in the bust, and her waist padded up, and some tired sloppy photography, Tadaaa!  I think the size of the white sakura print on the pink is just right for the size of the doll.  One traditionally Yukata and not quite so traditional Obi.  I went with a large bow, from a not so great fan art, because it was the closest I could find, but the tassels came out neat, I think.  Because the image shows black bands, I went with black satin ribbon to tie them.  It looks to me as if the Dollfie Dream Sister is shorter in the lower torso than my Dragon Doll girl, as well as a bit in the legs.  The yukata is tucked up at 48 cm from back of the neck base to hem, as per the chart.




The muslin is an absolute help, because my girl's lower torso is longer, I might have misplaced the hems on the skirts. The pleated skirt's hem length is scandalous on my girl! *0*;;

June 3, 2013 Update

Everything is all over the work room table in cut out pieces and notes for construction.  I got the black ribbon for the hat today, the pink ribbon matches nicely, and while I can't match the pink fabric exactly, I think the pink thread I got isn't going to show that much. (But then I'm so picky!)  With the size of the doll's head, and the neck opening being more curved and higher on her chest than the standard school uniform top, I'm going to hide an opening under her scarf on the sailor top rather than snaps on the side as I did with my other BJD sailor tops.
From the photos, the white uniform skirt is box pleats rather than just one side overlap pleats, so that will be a fun change.  This is why I love doing manga/anime outfits! There's always some little interesting thing that a mangaka puts in their character outfits that a fashion designer might just blow off as untenable.

June 5, 2013  Update

Sorry, no photos today, everything is still in portions and bits of sewing all over the table.  But progress is progressing! ^_^  I'm hand basting the ribbons on everything before I machine sew them on and then pull out the hand sewing stitches and that takes a bit of time since everything has to be marked perfectly so when it's sewn it's all even from the edges.  There was just enough of the white fabric to make everything with a lining in the dress top, the garters and neck frills, and still have a cover over a white lining for the little hat, which I haven't patterned yet.  Once I get the shoulders, collars and sleeves on the jacket, I can embroider the sleeve before I sew the sides up.

June 6, 2013 Update

Finally, all that stuff is starting to look like outfits!  Just barely squeeking by on the white fabric, but the Pink under layer should fluff out the skirt enough.  I had to line the bodice and I'm still not so sure about the sleeves, but since they are extra puffy, we'll see.  As long as the outer fabric matches, it's not a problem to line.  You can see the black facing for the navy top in the school tunic photos. The navy fabric is too thick to line or face it's self.  I haven't cut out the turtleneck part yet. I'll do that when I make the hat pattern.

The shell stitch for the edging was odd, but I think it came out neater than expected.  The ruffles for the socks and neck are still in one piece and the pink ribbon matches nicely in person, it's very shiny in the photo.  I happened to have a pink hair pin almost the exact color for the hair bow thing.
I'm still looking at a Monday finish, by my 'closing time' of 7 pm.



June 9, 2013 

T-mobile has a LOT to answer for, but AT&T has been messing up the man-thing's work phones for weeks now so maybe it's solar flares.  It's an impending brain hemorage for me if I keep losing my temper over it!
I'm down to the hand sewing on almost everything.  I still have to make the turtle neck part, pattern the cap and sew that, but the rest is all hand sewing, embroidering the logo thing on her sleeve, and then sewing up the sides, things like that.  I sent the photos to the customer in an email, but I'm going to try again to upload them here.  Just because I'm stubborn and I think I should get the use of the Data plan I'm paying for!

Okay, now that it looks like the photos are up: I've finished the hair bow and put a hair pin in it that can be slipped out of a thread loop to clean it if need be.  The neck ruffle is finished to tie with the ribbon, and the star is securely sewn on. If you look close, you can see there are inner 'stays' to the puff sleeves, not elastic to wear out.  I still need to sew the snaps on the back and it's a bit tight on my girl, but I'll try to photo it on her for show without snaping up the back? I still have to sew the ruffles and ribbons on the socks, as you can see.  I want to put them on my doll to make sure they are the right height on her legs.  I really like how the shell stitch made the edges come out, especially on the neck ruffle.  I might use it on more things now.



The back of the seifuku top, and the skirt just needs the hem sewn and snaps.  I'm used to doing one way pleats but the skirt she wears has box pleats. That took some rethinking of habits. The left over fabric for the cap and ribbon, and the black knit for the faux turtle neck and a bit of lint. 


The front of the seifuku top.  I used my doll with the biggest head with wig on to make sure the opening is big enough. Poor guy.  The trauma.  (snickers)  I'm still working out a way to hide the snap closure behind the scarf 'knot'.  The opening will be under the scarf ends, but how to work the knot so that it looks normal and still is part of the snap over?  Once the embroider is on, I'll sew up the side seams and finish the top with snaps on the cuffs.  I'm saving the cap for last, it's a simple beret, and using my big headed guy doll to pattern it on since he's 10 inches around with wig and it should fit.  I'm looking at Tuesday now, after thinking about everything that's left.  But then again, I might still finish it tomorrow.  It depends on what happens.  I wasted far too much time with T-mobile tech today and finally just gave up on calling them back to tell them "it's still not working!"

Now watch me hit "Update" and the service lose the whole post.  *head desk* *fingers crossed* 

June 6, 2013  Project Finished!  Paid for and Ready to ship!

Keep in mind that my girl is bigger than the girl the outfit is made for, so her boobage hikes up the front of the top a LOT. O_o  However, we soldiered on.  *giggles*  
I"m so glad I made the hat, it's an extra that really does make the outfit in my opinion.  It's a bit big for Jiji's 9 inch head.  That's the only thing that's too big on her. O_o 

The dress is fine, it's just her front that makes it sit wrong on her. 

The short sock is a bit snug going over the heel of my high heel doll, but it goes. I think my girl's body proportions are a little larger over all than a Dollfie Dream Sister, there's like a .25 cm here and a .5 cm there.  The thigh side is nice and snug and doesn't fall down when I bend her knee.  As you can see, I couldn't button the back because of the beach front property up there.  She looks like she's trying not to inhale, doesn't she? LOL!  

And yes it is a tad short on her.  

"Oneesan, kowaii!"
Poor Jiji....  
The left over fabric and all 3 outfits are boxed up and ready to go.  It weighs 1 lb 3 oz on my scale.  I went with a box I had rather than an envelope because there's so much stuff I don't want crushed in shipping.  

BTW: Kawaii means cute, Kowaii means scary! watch those a's and o's. 

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