Friday, February 1, 2013

Commission: 72 cm Soom Idealian Hakama Set for Youkaimoon

This will be the updating report for Youkaimoon's (on Den of Angels) commission

Customer wants a Man's formal Hakama set.

Sample of my Hakama set on Deviant Art

Time desired: 5 - 6 weeks.  Absolute deadline March 20, expected to be done sooner. 
Fabric is new, and reused vintage garments.

Idealian 72 cm male

Hakama: 'striped' fabric (stripes are the wrong side of a jaquard weave, but workable. Pretty neat, actually, ^_^) 
Haori: Violet (violent!purple child size vintage kimono re-purposed) with same lining. 
Kimono ankle length (with waist fold) White on white stripes.  
2 Man's Obi. (Men's ties re-purposed)
False collar: white cotton fabric unless otherwise contacted.  


Idealian 'Calais': Woman's Obi: Long falling bow.  (Re-purposed man's tie.)   

Feb 6, 2013

Fabric has arrived, and is now in prep.  Dismantling men's ties and child size kimono.

Feb 7, 2013


Feb 13, 2013

Patterns adjusted,  white kimono cut out and ready to sew (stacking white sewing for  one huge go at it) ties are very narrow,  but wrapping the obi on the body should cover that, as long as the ends do the shell knot tie easily.  Making the woman's obi will actually be much easier.  I do anticipate this job being done well ahead of time because it mixes in with the other projects on the black hakama and white kimono parts.  I've padded my biggest boy up to work as a manequin for the project.  He looks like he's wearing one of those costume superman muscle suits, LOL!

Feb 14, 2013

Everything but the woman's obi is cut out and ready to start sewing as project thread colors match up.  I want to think over the tie/obi design for a bit more, the position of the floral pattern on the fabric, how much will be left to make the falling bands, etc.
At this point, the project is looking well ahead of schedule.

Feb 18, 2013
At this point, everything is in the hand sewing box for the finishing sewing. ^_^  I'll do it as I have time working with other customer's hand sewing work.
Very quick and sloppy photo updates.  Right click and open in a new tab or window for the full sized photos, sloppy as they are.

The woman's obi, I wanted to go all out on and make sure it looks as authentic as possible.  It's almost all hand sewing and will have hidden snaps to attach it securely without having to fuss over tying a bow or anything.  The men's obi's, normally narrower anyway, will be hand tied, but I'm including a print out of how to wrap and tie a man's obi.  I didn't photograph them because they are inside out, full of pins and in the hand sewing box.

Glaring white fabric from too far back. Lots of hand sewing to go on this one.  A kimono is usually tucked up at the waistline, because it folds over a narrow tie belt,  and I plan to stitch a pre-tuck in this so it looks very long, but that's just the little tuck at the waist length showing.  (I cheat my own kimono and yukata that way, it just saves on more stuff tied at the waist.) The Hakama just need a hem and the belt tie ends finished.

A very shiny purple silk caught the flash and I was like WHAT? but it's just the flash, panic for a moment there. O_o  The wrong side of the brocade is used deliberately in this outfit, at the customer's request.  I want it very clear that I am not a dope who wouldn't do it unless it was a requested design element the customer wanted.  I also made her aware of the tendency to fray in the long floating threads on the back of the fabric that forms the stripes.  I would never move forward with out a customer's approval on things like this. 

Feb 22, 2013

The haori, hakama and 2 men's obis are finished and need pressing.  I'll photograph them when they are nice and neat.  
The woman's Obi, and white kimono are half finished, and the false collar is cut out.  I anticipate having everything finished, pressed and photographed by Sunday evening if not Saturday.  I never trust 'time' not to get interfered with.  

Feb 23, 2013

The outfit is finished!  I decided to just pour extra time into it while waiting for measurements on another project. 

 The finished Obis, 2 men's, 1 woman's.  The woman's is easy to put on the doll, with 2 snaps.  I used the doll's given waist measure, plus extra for fabric.  The snaps can be moved by a local seamstress if needed.

The incredibly shiny vintage silk haori, still reflecting the camera flash. It's actually a very serious violet purple, with the original kimono's cream silk lining.  

White on white striped Kimono.  I was going to tuck up and tack down the waist fold, but then I remembered that the customer had said she had Obi jimi so I left it as is, to be tucked up over a tied belt and adjusted for length in the traditional manner.  It's folded here just to get it on my rather beat up work table for the photo.  The strip next to it is the false collar, finished and pressed to be wrapped on the doll's neck and tucked in after the kimono is on.  

The Hakama, front and back. It's very nearly impossible to see the traditional pleats with the shiny, but they are there.  Someone once told me that a very good pair of hakama stand up on their own if the pleats are done right, so yeah, just showing off, ^_^.   The single pleat goes in back, the 3 pleats go in front. The strings slide through the back of the waist, and tie in front in a loose square knot.  The kimono is worn with the hem tucked up further on the waist tie and a little slouchy on either side of the crotch seam. It's a lot of fussing but looks nice when you're done.  



February 23, 2013 SHIPPED! ^_^

Youkaimoon sent me photos of her doll dressed up!  We both agree, that something was up with his width measurements.  I've offered to take the Kimono in at a later date, so it can share shipping with another commission.  But I think he looks hot enough to survive the trauma of too long sleeves, don't you?  Isn't it amazing how a change of wig can totally change a doll? O_o

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