Sunday, November 18, 2012

Commissions Information


I'm a professional seamstress and tailor, and have worked in theatrical costuming and run my own sewing business for humans for years. I've been working with ball joint dolls since 2010. You can check the side bar to see what dolls I own. I have one cat, and am very careful to clean and package anything I make so that no animal hair, dander, or household odors are on items. I live in Southern California in the USA, and will ship world wide to countries that PayPal and the U.S. Postal system will deal with. I have no problem with walking to the post office, or UPS store, they are right up the street. You can reach me via email at:

Important: If you are looking for someone to supply product for Your Esty or Ebay shop or website, look elsewhere.  I am not a manufacturing/sweatshop service.  


I'm currently accepting commissions for clothing to your design request. My interests are Manga/Anime, Historical, Retro, Steampunk and casual, as well as office wear.

Right now my turn around time for most clothing is 4-8 weeks.  Embroidered or heavily decorated costumes take as long as the amount of elaborate design needs.  I always try to over estimate the time needed.  I require a non-refundable half labor cost deposit to start work on the order.

You do not have to send me your doll, I actually prefer not to accept responsibility for other people's expensive and beloved dolls.  I work from measurements and if it's a really tricky body type, paper and tape casts that are easy to make and mail.  See this post for the measurement chart.

When the order is in progress, money tendered on the deposit, I will post an updating report post for their project.  Progress is photographed and reported every few days, so that customers can see their outfit and question or correct anything.


Varies depending on what you want made.  I will list the cost of everything so you can chose how you spend your own money.  I may have to get back to you after a day or three of research. If you wish to purchase the fabric and ship it to me, you will be charged only for labor, but I still require the deposit.  If you want me to shop for you, I will have to figure out how much fabric and the cost is needed and get back to you, and then the remaining labor charge is to be paid when your garments are done. Any overage for fabric will be applied to the balance of your labor.

Please note, the price I quote is per job, not per hour.  If I finish sooner or later than the estimated time, the price remains the same.

For shipping via USPS, I can give only a rough estimate based on online pricing charts, but without knowing how heavy the fabric for an item is, that's something that has to be discussed and adjusted for.

I will quote you a price based on your drawing, sketch, concept after we have got it very clear what you would like, design, fabrics, etc. It's nice if you have a front, back and side view, either photo or rough sketch of what you have in mind. I'm used to working with very rough sketches from customers, so don't be shy. Be prepared to take measurements of your doll with a thin, cm (not inches) tape measure. Here is the measurement form.

Patterns and Quality:

I make all my own patterns, but if you wish to have something made from a purchased pattern, I will trace it off and your pattern will be returned to you uncut. My goal is to make every item as if it were for a human being to wear, as closely as possible allowing for the differences between doll and human figure and movement. I aim for proper proportion, pose-ability, with couture techniques, and the clothing I make is meant to last. Everything I make is designed to be put on the doll with out removing hands or heads, as closely as possible to the desired design. However it does depend on what fabric the customer wishes to use.  Stiff polyesters and such do affect the look of an outfit.


Most of my recent work is on my Deviant Art site, and I'm constantly working on new patterns for items for all sizes of dolls.


For the most part, I prefer to work with natural fibers, and real Rayon, and blends there of, like Cotton/Linen, Cotton/Rayon, etc.  Lycra at 8% or less is okay, as long as the main fabric is natural.  Double Knit Polyester does not lend itself well to doll size items.  Some of the more sheer polyester stuff with gold or sliver fibers or prints, as long as they are very thin, are okay.  Remember thin to you is thick on a doll. A lot of microfibers and suede cloth behave very much like natural fabric, so those are reasonable.

I can sew the thinner fake leathers, PVC and vinyl, but not the heavy stuff.

Check this post for info on choosing fabrics. 

I don't work with leather or hides from animals on a large scale.  Small things like strips of fur trim and hand sewing, but not machine sewn leather garments, my machine isn't made for them.

Nor can I mold plastic, resins, or metals, and will turn down offers I honestly feel I can't do justice to. 

I prefer not to use Velcro unless the customer specifically wants it or needs it for accessibility reasons. I have a small stock of thin Volks brand velcro, it's sheer and only a bit stiff, but nice for people who have trouble working their hands to dress a doll.  

Payment Via Paypal only.

I usually give the customer a week after the quoted time, even if I finish earlier than that.  For instance if I say, it will be done in 2 weeks and it's done in 1, you still have 3 weeks to pay.

Be aware that unpaid for items will end up on Etsy, just like clothes that get left at the dry cleaners' get sold every 3 months.   

Etsy: If you wish to commission an item through Etsy, the Etsy method will be followed.  Your item will be listed as described and made as a Custom Order in my Etsy shop.  I also offer the option to have items in my shop made to order.  If you want something there with a different fabric or color, or small changes in design, like a sleeve or a hem, please feel free to contact me. 


Refunds will be based on possibilities that are outside my control, such as natural disaster damage to your goods, or severe illness that precludes my ability to do the work (which thankfully, is not very often!). Otherwise, you will get what you ask for and agree on, that is my guarantee. This is why it's important to measure carefully and keep track of your commission's updating report.

Using Paypal is your legal security as well as mine. Your original designs and all images you send me are yours and will be deleted from my files (unless you have given me permission to post a commission report for your project). I will not use patterns made from your original designs to make items for my ready to wear shop. Designs based on popular media images such as comics, manga, anime, etc. in 'cosplay' situations are up for grabs. If I make you a sailor moon costume, that does not preclude my ever making another one in the exact same style and fabric for someone else.

Saturday, November 10, 2012

Kyou is Getting a New Face

Kyou, my Dream Realm Black Crow I got to cosplay Sebastian, was advertised with photos like this:

Dream Realm Black Crow BJD

Friday, November 9, 2012

Trick Knees: BJDs and Pant Leg Length

I was reading the news on BJD Collectasy today and as usual washed up someplace interesting while surfing.

I've mentioned before about finding that I had to add length to pants because of the way ball joint dolls' knees work. Elbows are not so obvious, but I have another trick for longer sleeves.

LoongSoul Dolls had a post on someone ripping off their technology; specifically, how their knees are made.  The photos make it very clear how their knees are made.  They are also very good explanation why a doll's bent knee can add up to or in this case, over an inch to a leg's length in a pair of slacks.

Photo from LoongSoul Dolls:

As you can see, when the knees are bent, it's not just a case of, well, bending a knee. It's extending the joint that makes the knee bend.  (How many parts are in there? O_o ) Which is why I add length to my doll's pants patterns that sometimes results in dragging hems if I don't remember to fold them up and under when photographing them.  However, my guys look really good when sitting casually cross legged.  No vast expanses of sock a la high rider.    

Now for the sleeve trick.  When you dress a doll, getting the long sleeve through a jacket is a pain in the butt.  But--if the sleeves are a bit longer, you can just take a tiny safety pin, pin the unbuttoned (or un-snapped) cuff so that it hooks over the doll's thumb and slide the jacket on, then remove the pin.  If you buy ready made shirts that have not so long sleeves, just leave the front of the shirt unbuttoned until you get the jacket on, so that the sleeve is loose enough not to break off your doll's thumb!  I like to put ties on my guys, so the longer sleeve is to fix it so I can dress them properly without a lot of hassle trying to get a tie on when they already have a jacket on.  

Think of dressing a BJD as being like dressing an un-co-operative toddler who's gone completely limp post tantrum. The easier you can make it on yourself, the better. 

Monday, November 5, 2012

The Trouble with Doll Body Sizes

Fact: Dolls come in as many sizes as people.  You can get a doll with an A, B, C, D, DD or OMG size bust with rest of the body all in the same size. The boys come in wide ranges as well; so what fits one "Uncle" does not fit another "Uncle".  (70 cm and up)  And what fits a Slim Uncle does not fit a Slim EID by any means.  When I started looking at dolls, the first thing I learned was how important it is to know your doll's size, and what companies provided clothing and shoes in that size.  I have a Slim Uncle who's feet are TINY, he can share shoes with my 60 cm boy.  My Dragon Doll Uncles (also considered 'Slim) are so big, you can't zip up the back of boots past their ankles. It's something you learn to deal with, just like when you shop for your own clothing.

My SD or 1/3 girl, a 60 cm tall Dragon Doll Gen 1 body, large bust, has got a 15 cm waist. It doesn't show so much from the front how tiny her waist is.  She's sway backed, which means when you look at her sideways, there is a noticeable dip/curve in her lower back.  In people, this is a fitting issue, because the waist back is significantly smaller then what is considered average.  Clothing will fit perfect every where but in the back waist, where it will gap or sag away from the waist, because there is such a dip there.  Usually there is some tricky bias work or serious darting in the back hip to waist region going on there to correct a sagging amount of fabric.  It also makes my doll quite beautifully balanced, so I'm not seeing it as any type of flaw at all.  (Sherry at Pattern ~ Scissors ~ Cloth has a really good explanation for what and how to do about the sway back figure.)

The only Dragon Doll company photo of her discontinued body type from the side is very small and blurry, so I drew a line where the back is curved. The later generations are not so curved in the lower back.

My slight problem as a clothing designer?  Most SD girls on the market now have about an 18 or 19 cm waist.  So when I design and pattern for SD girls, I try to cover the 15 to 19 cm range in the waist, as well as the popular bust range.  Everything else is usually the same, except for specific doll makers, who make a point of having their dolls a different proportion.  The shirtdress pattern I made in September this year, with the wrap and tie belt, works fine for most SD girls.  However, when I want to do something in the more fitted range, I cut up some of those little square make up remover cotton pads, and pad up my doll with some masking tape and fill in that dip.  When I'm designing a pattern,  if I can, I'll work in some elastic or adjustment straps in the details that look like fashion trim, so the outfit will fit more dolls.

However, I do want to do more fitted clothing, like the vintage inspired wiggle dress, or the steampunk corset.  The restrictions on the "ready to wear" items in my Etsy shop being that the corset will have to be underbust style, and the tight dress may have to incorporate something in the line of an adjusting waist cincher or hidden elastic.  

I'm also still working on casual wear to mix and match; but casual is not so casual when you think about it.  Jeans for instance.  Yeah, they fit tight.  Unless you have the doll in hand, or a pattern made specifically for the doll, you're going to go nuts.  And even then, can the doll sit, or pose, in the jeans?  Hard to tell, but I've seen a lot of standing up doll photos.  I also found out with my first pair for my big guy, that I have to add an inch in extra length to make up for double jointed knee extensions.  They have to be a little loose.  And a beefcake doll like the EID Super Hero is going to have butt issues, if some lee way isn't worked into the seat/crotch area.  Stretch fabric will get caught in joints, or emphasize how strange a double jointed knee can look.  So skin tight jeans are not exactly an option unless your boy girl is going to spend a lot of time standing around looking painfully fashionable. I like to leave some room for the doll to move, but then I spoil my 'kids' rotten anyway.

When you buy clothing (or patterns for that matter!)  for your doll, make sure you know the measurements. If there is a question, email the seller and ask them for the garment's finished measurements.  A good dealer will find out for you.  Measure your doll with a thin, 'cm' tape measure instead of inches.  It's easier to get close measurements in tight curves that way.  I buy a normal tape measure, and cut it in half down the middle for the cm side, and only as long as my doll, so  that I have one in proportion to work with.