Sunday, June 3, 2018

Dior Project: Under Dress

I've managed in the past week to come up with a fix for the 5 different size Iplehouse SID problem.  The waist only varies by 3 millimeters.  This is a structured shoulder-less formal dress.  The rest is the bust area.  Dior constructed his dresses over a corset and slip under dress.  It was not unusual to use bust 'enhancers' for some figures.  The only thing I am having issues with is that Dior underdresses were mostly netting and the netting these days is not as sturdy as in those days, due to its being finer.  And I don't want to scratch up a doll with the rougher net, so I will stick to muslin and chiffon for the under dress.  This is my goal for the under dress, as I have posted previously; Pictures swiped from the Metropolitan Museum collection,

This is a tea-length version but you can see how he emphasized the waist by dropping the skirt's attachment point.  I read somewhere ages ago in fashion classes that his models had to have waists no bigger than the circumference of their heads.  Of course he hired girls who had been half starved during the war so yeah...they probably were not as big as modern girls are, or as tall as most models these days are required to be. I believe his Asian ethnic background model was only 5 feet tall, but that might be a mis remembered factoid, too.  

Once the under dress is done, the actual dress was draped and pinned on the model wearing it, and the fabric manipulated into position by pins and basting stitches.  The dresses were so structured and supported, they could practically stand on their own in many cases.
This was screen capped from the book, "Vogue on Christian Dior".   You can see the little tweaks to make things fit well past the pattern part.  Things like sweat shields, letting out, taking in, refitting, last minute design changes can be traced, as long as the dress looked good on the outside, the silk and chiffon covered skyscraper-like support on the inside.  And all but the long, straight seams were typically done by hand. If you watch the Dior YouTube vids, it's amazing what they do by hand, and the hours of work that go into each dress.  Thank goodness, I can cut all that by one-third.  Maybe, LOL!  

Thursday, May 24, 2018

Seriously Iplehouse?

First challenge of the Dior project.  Iplehouse played silly buggers with the doll sizes.

I'm fairly sure my girl is a small bust old style, but I will measure her again. Then I will find a clever way to make the bodice adjust, while remaining true to the Dior process. Interesting how they went a few tenth of centimeters (millimeters) thinner in most places.   It looks like the company's old style clothing might fit the new style body a little more naturally.  My plan was to go with bust pads (fashion, you have to love it) and make the dress fit up to a Glamour bust size girl, just take the pads out.  It would not be the first time I have made custom pads to stuff a formal dress, just not for a doll. 

Wednesday, May 23, 2018

The Dior Project Lives Again, Despite The Damned Poster Tack

Remember this girl?

She is 'spare' head for my Dragon Doll body, and I finally found her today while looking for that wig.  The stupid tack melted, leaked out of her eye, all over that part of her face (think phantom of the opera, only sticky!) and into the wig.  (Sigh).  
For the hair, I will try the baby oil, then wash trick; but for her face and acrylic eye, I'm afraid it is going to be a new face up.  It was a horrible mess.    

I was looking for the short 50's wig because I've been wanting to do a Dior Goddess dress from scratch for years, found the project box a month ago, and finally made up my mind to use the IH SID 28cm bust doll Fishcake gave me for the model.  Because her lime green sneakers will go so well with it!  I am, however going to pad up the dolls bust a bit, because I might want to sell it when it is eventually done and while a beaded and sequined dress can be taken in, it is a pain in the butt to let it out.  But this is one of those dream projects I have had in a bucket since FIDM days, it is already all supplied for down to the zipper, and it is all hand sewing, so it will keep me out of trouble for some time.  

The inspirations for this project, Venus and Juno.
More info on the gowns here.

In looking through my blog photos for the bag o'stuff photo, I found these.

Tama's Idea of Helping

  My Idea of Helping.
Clearly there is a cultural incompatibility at work here. 

Update: WD-40 got the poster tack out of the wig, but I had to wash it three times in mild soap to get rid of the oil, and the wig still smells like WD-40, so use baby oil.  Vegetable oil might work, too, so chose your odor.  There appears to be no damage to the fiber.  It is one of those heat resistant stiff hair wigs, not the soft fine hair ones.  

Monday, May 21, 2018

The Nigerian Scam is Now the Hong Kong Scam?

I had to laugh, when in my spam folder shows up this HK based scam email.  Do people really still fall for that sort of thing?  I responded: "Dear Mr. Chow, thank you for your interest, but we only deal with Nigerian scammers.  Best of luck."


I am going to start accepting orders again.  Time to stop being a coward and just do it.  I had a repeat customer send me a query this morning and it's time.  I have everything I need where I can get to it, I just need to get my confidence back.  I have all these patterns I have been working on for my doll sizes, I have reviewed all the blasted Etsy changes, I have been saddened by the loss of supply shops and am looking for new ones, but yeah, time to get back into the swing of things. 

I need to start looking in the forums and shops again, even though it will drive me nuts with all the pretty dolls and pretty things, and yeah, must move storage this Fall to a more useful unit, and all that, but its time to get back to my own life again.  I need to work, I need to be productive, I need to stop making excuses and just do it.  Plus I have plateaued on my Japanese studies again and I can only stare in confusion at comparison sentence patterns for so long before it becomes procrastination.  I have piles of sewing of my own to do, eyes made with Sakura sparkle pens  (borrowed from the library craft lady, they are pretty awesome, I need a set!) to assemble, all this stuff!  Not to mention the much put off Dior dress project in a box, which is still in a box....Anyway, on with life! 

Wednesday, May 9, 2018

Now I Know What a 'Felt Mute' Is

I have a feeling this was originally some musician's beret that got shoved on a horn to change the tone.  So this is made from a piece of felt, with a cut out to 'let the sound out' and mutes the tone somewhat. There are various types of mutes, this is a felt one.  The trombone it is on is a beautiful vintage trombone with amazing chasing in a southwestern pattern reminiscent of Spanish work.  My phone is a lousy camera, but maybe it will show.  The library computers do not have photo editing programs so I have to just go with what shows, without being able to focus in, etc.

See how it looks like a beret with a hole in it?

It has to fit loosely so that the musician can pop it off and on one handed as needed. 
I was weirded out by how loose it had to be because I am used to fashion fitting, so the poor horn looks badly to dressed to me, but I am assured this it is.

We looked on YouTube for an example, and there are a number of strange mutes for brass instruments, but these are a few.

I guess it depends on what you are used to using and what preferences the player has, and in the music sheets it will state certain mutes to be used.  

So, I sewed this by hand, because the weather was too hot and I didn't feel like lugging the machine to the park. It is heavy! Plus the battery.  So yeah, still working on that.  

And while I have the phone hooked up:

How Tama spent his vacation at the beach!

Thursday, April 12, 2018

Found Them!

Okay, crisis over, I found the Idealian, EID and SID boy jeans patterns, thank goodness!  I stil have not found the stuff I cut out for the big guy dolls, but the stuff must be in there some where.  I did find the Dior project box, which I wish I had been working on all this time, since it is a hand sewing job. 

Anyway, I have a machine sewing project to do, and this is is the perfect excuse to take the battery box to the park (if it doesn't rain in the next few days) and get it done.  It is an end cover or what ever the name is for it for a trombone.  The jaz musician and composer already has one of those plunger cup things, but he also wants this cover made from felt with elastic that does something to the tonals of the horn or something like that.  From dolls to big band, sheesh!  But I need to get over my shyness and get that machine to the park.